Prada Responds to Controversy Over Indian Sandal Design Recognition

Amid criticism regarding cultural appropriation, Prada has accepted the inspiration behind its new footwear line comes from traditional Kolhapuri sandals, reflecting the importance of local craftsmanship.

Italian luxury fashion brand Prada has recently faced backlash after unveiling a sandal design reminiscent of the traditional Kolhapuri sandals at Milan Fashion Week. The open-toe braided pattern of the footwear evoked strong reactions in India as it closely mirrored the cultural heritage rooted in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Initially branded solely as "leather footwear", the lack of acknowledgment for Indian origins led to accusations of cultural appropriation. In a bid to address the backlash, Prada issued a statement recognizing that the design was inspired by traditional Indian craftsmanship. A spokesperson emphasized the brand's commitment to celebrating diverse heritage and expressed openness to dialogue with local artisans, specifically mentioning ongoing communication with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture.

The controversy escalated when the Maharashtra-based trade association criticized Prada for profiting from designs without due recognition of the artisans who have preserved this craft through generations. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada's head of Corporate Social Responsibility, asserted that discussions would continue, reflecting the company's intention to engage with the local artisan community to ensure respectful collaboration.

Kolhapuri sandals, named after their city of origin, date back to the 12th Century and are known for their durability and suitability for India's warm climate. They received Geographical Indication (GI) status from the Indian government in 2019, cementing their authenticity and cultural significance.

Artisans in Kolhapur expressed disappointment over Prada's use of their design, urging recognition of their labor. One artisan, Prabha Satpute, highlighted the effort invested by local craftsmen, asserting, "These sandals should be named after Kolhapur. Don’t take advantage of others' labour." Furthermore, the significant price difference between Prada's luxury sandals and the modest income of local artisans drew attention to inequities within the fashion industry, as prominent industrialist Harsh Goenka pointed out.

Despite the controversy, the situation has sparked pride among some artisans, who feel their work is gaining recognition. Businessman Dileep More stated, "Artisans are happy that someone is recognising their work," revealing a mix of sentiment in the wake of the fashion giant's engagement with their craft.

As cultural appropriation debates continue, this incident reflects the ongoing struggles faced by traditional artisans when their work is co-opted by global brands without giving proper acknowledgment.