A Turkish attempt to force kebab shops in the EU to adhere to strict rules on how to make a doner kebab has been withdrawn.
If the bid for a Traditional Speciality Guaranteed label had succeeded, restrictions would have been imposed on the types of ingredients that could be used.
Germany's kebab industry would have particularly skewered, as the quintessential high street doner has evolved over the decades to be rather different than the original from Turkey.
Turkish authorities argued the doner should be viewed a national dish that spread to Europe through the migration of Turks. But German officials said its take on the kebab had become part of its own national cuisine.
The traditional way of cooking meat on a vertical rotisserie goes back to the 16th Century, according to Turkey's International Doner Federation (Udofed), and the name doner is related to that cooking technique.
Udofed requested the EU to impose uniform rules across the bloc requiring that:
- the meat would come from a cow aged over 16 months, lamb aged at least six months, or chicken thighs and breasts
- veal and turkey meat would be banned
- meat would have to be sliced to a thickness of 3-5mm
- the type of knife used would be regulated and marinades would too
The German variant of a kebab often uses veal and is served in flatbread packed with vegetables like red cabbage and pickles, making it a distinctly European adaptation of the Turkish classic.
The Turkish federation failed to consult Germany's kebab industry, which had support from the government in Berlin. The German food and agriculture ministry expressed astonishment at Turkey's bid.
The doner belongs to Germany, stated former German food and agriculture minister Cem Özdemir, who emphasized the right of German citizens to enjoy kebabs as they see fit.
If Udofed had followed through with its bid, the situation could have led to significant implications for kebab businesses within Europe, especially in Germany where over 1.5 million Turkish citizens reside.
About 60,000 people are employed in the kebab industry in Germany, which produces around 400 tonnes of kebab daily, generating annual sales of €3.5bn across Europe, including €2.4bn in Germany alone.
The Turkish federation ultimately communicated to the European Commission that it had withdrawn its application on September 23, noting that it had attracted numerous objections and that a compromise could not be reached.