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Lake Kivu: A Tale of Two Cities Amid Conflict

Exploring the stark contrast between peace in Gisenyi, Rwanda, and turmoil in Goma, DRC

By Elian Peltier and Guerchom NdeboSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Lake Kivu: A Tale of Two Cities Amid Conflict
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

The shores of Lake Kivu represent two divergent realities; while Gisenyi enjoys calm and leisure, Goma faces tragedy and conflict due to rebel violence.

In February 2025, Lake Kivu serves as a dramatic backdrop, embodying the stark contrasts between peace and violence in neighboring cities. On the Rwandan side, Gisenyi features serene beaches where locals engage in leisure activities such as jet-skiing and canoeing. Here, visitors revel in the warmth of a sunset, celebrating life amid colorful decorations and the enticing aroma of grilled food. Conversely, just a mere two miles away, the Democratic Republic of Congo's Goma is grappling with a devastating humanitarian crisis. Following an offensive by the M23 rebel group, an estimated 3,000 lives were lost in January, leaving fear and suffering in its wake. "It is peaceful here, unlike over there," expressed Exauce Shalako, a 20-year-old from Goma who sought solace in Rwanda. He highlighted the need to escape the harsh realities of home, where the echoes of conflict linger. Despite the apparent tranquility, experts indicate that Rwanda's military involvement exacerbates the situation. Accusations of Rwandan troops backing M23 have been made by the UN and the US. However, the Rwandan government denies these claims. As Gisenyi thrives with its picturesque shoreline, the grim reminders of the ongoing conflict wash ashore in Goma, illustrating the discord between two worlds coexisting on either side of Lake Kivu.

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