Sushi with a Side of Resilience: A Sloviansk Chef's War Story

As Russian aggression intensifies in Sloviansk, entrepreneur Serhii Kovalov defies the odds by serving sushi to uplift community spirits, showcasing the resilience of daily life in wartime.

In the beleaguered town of Sloviansk, Ukraine, the glimmer of normalcy shines through the chaos of conflict via a humble sushi restaurant named Slavnyi Horod, which translates to "Glorious City." As Russian forces encroach upon the area, Serhii Kovalov, the 30-year-old owner and chef, has chosen to stand firm, risking his safety to serve sushi—a dish that has, over time, become a symbol of comfort and endurance for his community.

Despite not having a particular fondness for sushi himself, Kovalov recognized the growing demand from locals seeking a taste of home and familiarity amidst the turmoil of war. Since the onset of the full-scale invasion in February 2022, the agile chef has navigated both battlefield dangers and logistical hurdles to source fresh fish for Philadelphia rolls, making sushi an unexpected fixture on his menu.

For many residents of Sloviansk, this niche delicacy has become more than a meal; it represents a piece of their pre-war life, a reminder that joy and normalcy can still thrive even in the darkest times. Kovalov sees the smiles it brings to his customers as affirmation of his purpose, saying, “I know I’m needed here.” With the specter of evacuation clouding many in Sloviansk, Kovalov remains determined to provide not just sustenance, but a fleeting escape from the harsh realities of a city under siege.

As Sloviansk continues to grapple with threats from advancing Russian troops, the sushi served at Slavnyi Horod has transcended mere culinary appeal, evolving into a potent symbol of defiance against adversity. In a town where the sounds of artillery often drown out the laughter of children, Kovalov’s commitment to feeding both soldiers and civilians is a testament to the human spirit's remarkable ability to seek comfort in companionship and cuisine, even when everything else feels uncertain.