The Golden Market of Indian Hair: Transforming Waste into Wigs

As demand for wigs rises globally, the Indian hair industry is evolving from a largely overlooked sector to a booming market. Collectors, traders, and brands are navigating challenges to turn discarded hair into valuable products, highlighting an industry ripe for growth.

In recent years, the perspective on wigs has shifted dramatically in India, with drag artist Zeeshan Ali leading the charge. For a decade, Ali has dazzled audiences with a collection of nearly 45 wigs that enhance his transformative performances. He credits these pieces as essential tools that allow him to embody diverse characters, although acquiring them was once a struggle. “Initially, finding quality wigs in India was a challenge. Many were imported or crafted from rudimentary materials,” Ali recalls.

Fortunately, the perception of wigs has evolved. They are no longer confined to the drag scene or film productions; many women now embrace wigs as a fashionable accessory. India, recognized as the world's top exporter of human hair, supplies an impressive 85% of the global demand. Kolachi Venkatesh, a hair collector from Chennai, has been in the business for 20 years. Originating from a family of hair pickers, he recalls, “Hair deemed trash is actually invaluable.”

Interestingly, hair managed by pickers is often cheaper and identified as non-Remy hair, contrasting with the premium Remy hair that is carefully harvested from the scalp. Venkatesh explains that although they contribute to a billion-dollar industry, pickers’ earnings can be dismal, often just below the minimum wage. "While our work fuels a global market, the intermediaries often dictate prices,” he explains.

Most human hair collected in India ends up in China, wherein the vast wig industry continues to thrive. According to Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil, “China’s wig sector is worth approximately five to six billion dollars,” leaving India with substantial leeway to develop. He advocates for government investment to enhance production capabilities and creativity in the Indian hair industry.

In Delhi, Nidhi Tiwari co-founded Diva Divine Hair in 2009, aiming to carve out a niche in high-quality wigs and hair extensions. She notes a significant cultural shift that allows for open discussions about wigs, primarily spurred by increasing hair loss issues among women in India.

Meanwhile, advancements have led to innovative wig designs, such as personalized options involving 3D printing and improved adhesive technologies allowing for longer, more comfortable wear. George Cherion from Raj Hair International highlights the booming demand for Indian Temple or Remy hair, which comes from temples as a sacrifice of faith. “Remy hair offers unmatched quality and appearance, resulting in an increase in demand,” he adds.

Amidst these developments, Zeeshan Ali expresses hope for a more expansive Indian wig market, advocating for financial accessibility and calls for designs that leave a lasting impression. The Indian hair industry stands at a crossroads, with the potential to elevate its global standing significantly through innovation and a changing cultural landscape.