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Cafes and Controls: Navigating Life Under Islamist Rule in Idlib

In the city of Idlib, residents share their experiences of life under Islamist governance, detailing strict laws and some improvements in public services.

By Raja Abdulrahim and Ivor Prickett For The New York TimesSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Cafes and Controls: Navigating Life Under Islamist Rule in Idlib
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

In Idlib, Syria, the Islamist group Hayat Tahrir al-Sham has implemented stringent regulations, including a ban on music and hookahs in cafes, but residents report improvements in basic services like water supply.

In the bustling fruit and vegetable market of Idlib, where Hadayat Tahrir al-Sham has taken the reins, the atmosphere reflects a blend of strict regulations and basic service enhancements. On the second floor of the Shababeek cafe, only two young men linger in the male section, while the family area, a substitute for women, is alive with conversations over cups of Turkish coffee. Unlike their counterparts in other regions of Syria, the café’s soundscape is devoid of music, creating a stark contrast against the backdrop of vibrant social life that could have been.The owner of the cafe, Yahia Naeme, admits that the ban on hookahs and music has cost him customers, particularly those who used to frequent the establishment for socializing over shisha. “If we can’t offer it, they’ll get bored and go elsewhere,” he laments, acknowledging that while he wants to comply with the imposed regulations, it doesn't come without financial consequences. Despite the restrictions, some cafes have attempted to sidestep the rules by establishing clandestine areas for hookah enthusiasts, attempting to balance compliance with a desire to cater to patrons. Yet, Naeme has opted for caution, fearing repercussions that could arise from challenging the group's authority. As life in Idlib adapts to the nuances of rule under Hayat Tahrir al-Sham, locals navigate these new social landscapes, striking a delicate balance between adhering to strict guidelines and finding pockets of normality in an otherwise tumultuous setting.

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