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Cafes and Compliance: Daily Life in Rebel-Controlled Idlib

Exploring the contrasting realities of governance under Hayat Tahrir al-Sham in Idlib, Syria.

By Raja Abdulrahim and Ivor Prickett For The New York TimesSource: nytimes.com1 min read
Cafes and Compliance: Daily Life in Rebel-Controlled Idlib
Image via nytimes.com

In brief

Residents of Idlib navigate strict regulations while experiencing notable improvements in public services under the rule of Islamist group Hayat Tahrir al-Sham.

In the heart of Idlib City, the Shababeek cafe stands as a testament to life under the control of Hayat Tahrir al-Sham, the Islamist governing body that has maintained power over much of Idlib Province for several years. Inside the establishment, the atmosphere is markedly different from typical cafes elsewhere in Syria; the familiar sounds of music or hookah pipes are conspicuously absent, a result of strict regulations imposed by the ruling group. Instead, patrons find themselves in a space devoid of smoke and filled with the aroma of Turkish coffee—a change that underscores the group's firm grip on social decorum. Yahia Naeme, the cafe's owner, recounts the impact of these rules on his business. The ban on hookahs and music was implemented from the beginning of their rule, leading to a decline in customers who previously flocked to the cafe for a more relaxed ambiance. To navigate this, some other cafes have found creative ways to offer hookahs discreetly, but Naeme opts for compliance, prioritizing stability over profit.Despite the stringent regulations, residents share mixed feelings about their governance. Many acknowledge the positive strides made in essential public services, particularly in water supply infrastructure, improving daily living conditions. However, the trade-offs remain a point of contention—while they appreciate reliable access to water, the imposition of conservative social codes has ushered in a climate of strict observance.As life under Hayat Tahrir al-Sham continues, the balancing act between governance and individual freedoms becomes increasingly complex, revealing a community adapting to its unique realities amidst the chaos of Syria's prolonged civil war.

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