Beef prices have gotten so high in the US that it has become a political problem.
Even Donald Trump, who long ago declared inflation dead, is talking about it, as the issue threatens to undercut his promises to bring down grocery prices for Americans.
This week, he took to social media, urging ranchers to lower prices for their cattle.
But his demand - and other proposals his administration has floated to address the issue - has sparked a backlash among ranchers, who worry some of his solutions will make it harder for them to make a living, while making little dent at the grocery store.
The number of beef cattle farmers and ranchers in the US has dwindled steadily since 1980, reducing domestic supplies and driving up prices, as demand remains high.
The country's cattle inventory has fallen to its lowest level in nearly 75 years, while the US has lost more than 150,000 cattle ranches just since 2017 - a 17% drop, according to the Agriculture Department.
Ranchers say they are under pressure from four decades of consolidation among the meat processors that buy their livestock, while high costs for key inputs like fertiliser and equipment have intensified the strain.
The contraction in the industry has worsened, as several years of drought have forced ranchers to slash their herds.
Christian Lovell, a cattle rancher in Illinois, said parts of his farm that were lush and grassy when he was a child have now dried up, limiting where his cows can graze.
Retail prices for ground beef rose 12.9% over the 12 months to September, and beef steaks were up 16.6%, according to US inflation data published Friday by the Bureau of Labor Statistics.
Trump's recent proposals include increasing beef imports from Argentina, drawing concern from agricultural groups and ranchers who fear that such moves will only complicate an already difficult market.
Despite assurances from Trump that he intends to support farmers through tariffs and other means, ranchers remain skeptical about the potential impact of these strategies on grocery prices.
With just four companies dominating over 80% of the beef market, many believe that tackling market concentration could bring about genuine change. However, Trump has faced backlash for revoking policies aimed at addressing corporate consolidation.
As ranchers like Mike Callicrate take matters into their own hands by establishing direct-to-consumer sales, the broader question of industry viability remains front and center, highlighting deep-rooted issues that potential solutions must address.
