France has begun taxing ultra‑fast fashion items, a move that could see costs rise to almost €20 per garment by 2030. The new levy, enacted this Tuesday, follows a June law aimed at companies such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress that flood the market with cheap apparel.
The taskforce for the legislation defines “ultra‑fast fashion” by two metrics: the volume of clothing a firm places on sale and the ratio of repair cost to purchase price. Each product receives a fee that scales with its score on these factors. For 2026, the charges range from a €0.50 levy on underwear to €2 for T‑shirts, €9 for jeans and €12 for a jacket.
The cap sits at 50% of the pre‑tax price, allowing the fee to climb to €19.50 in 2030, according to the government. French Minister Mathieu Lefevre stressed the “harmful effects of ultra‑fast fashion” on the environment and the national economy.
H&M and Zara will not fall under the levy, a fact announced by Lefevre’s office in July. The move has drawn criticism from China, which labels the law a discriminatory trade barrier that could breach WTO rules.
Shein, the Singapore‑based wholesale site founded in China, saw its stock debut at $26.2bn in Hong Kong this year. Following the levy, the brand warned the tax would diminish the purchasing power of French consumers amid an ongoing cost‑of‑living surge.
Temu, a Chinese‑owned marketplace, repeats the argument that it does not manufacture its own products and thus is not a fast‑fashion brand. Both companies have yet to provide detailed comments on how the new levy will affect their operations.
